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Victoria British Columbia Canada Travel Guide

Vancouver Island: Food Reviews: Chocolate

The Best of Island Chocolate
Islanders love their chocolates and today they tell us who makes the best

Hellene Pappas stirs some milk chocolate at Chocolat in Brentwood Bay, which will soon be moving to Victoria.
 
CREDIT: Darren Stone, Times Colonist
 

With a successful, 118-year history of chocolate making creating a large, loyal and multi-generational clientele, Rogers' Chocolates was not a surprising top choice for chocolate with Times Colonist readers.

Monica Reekie, owner of Forgett-Me-Nott Bed & Breakfast, praised Rogers for the "largest selection, seasonal specialties, good price for high quality and friendly staff (particularly at the factory)."

"The chocolates are still as good today as they were years ago," says L. Madill, commenting that Rogers seems to be getting better with age.

Readers rated Hot Chocolates in Courtenay, a relatively new business, a very close second.

"When I go to Vancouver to visit friends, it is expected that I bring Hot Chocolates with me. Their presence is also requested internationally -- from England to Korea. Our friends just can't get enough of them, and it is often one of the first places we take visitors. Hot Chocolates is definitely the Comox Valley's biggest vice -- we're just so darn proud of those little truffles!" e-mailed Kathy Jerrit.

"It's about the level of sweetness. Hot Chocolates has hit the right balance. They have created an intense, smooth, very adult chocolate confection. It doesn't matter which variety you choose, they are all superlative and decadent," says Linda Page.

Many readers were equally passionate about the third top vote getter, Chocolat, which will be re-located at 703 Fort St. in time for Valentine's Day after operating out of a kiosk at West Saanich Road and Stelly's Cross Road. The business is owned by the former co-owner of the now defunct but popular Hill House Chocolates.

Rogers Chocolates Victoria BC

"I must say that Helene Pappas of Chocolat makes the best chocolates I have ever tasted," says Linda Nagelbach. "Helene is a chocolatier of distinction... All her chocolates are handmade using only the freshest ingredients, the finest Belgian chocolate and no preservatives. (Her special ingredients must be love and laughter)."

Rounding out the top five picks were well-known chocolate makers Purdy's Chocolates and Bernard Callebaut, whose products are available nationally.

"The smoothest chocolate in town -- you feel complete after one chocolate," wrote Debbie Coverdale about Purdy's.

"Taste wonderful! Melts in your mouth; not overly sweet; looks pretty and has elegant packaging. Makes you feel special," says Dayle Drouin about Bernard Callebaut.

- - - -

Judging by the holiday queues at Rogers' Chocolates, Purdy's and Bernard Callebaut, it's evident that many Island chocolate lovers have tasted the wares of these sweet shops.

So the Times Colonist panel of experts selected chocolates from three smaller companies praised by neighborhood patrons but not so well-known by those around the Island. Perhaps they should be. On the list were Hot Chocolates in Courtenay, Chocolat in Brentwood Bay (moving to Victoria), and Choco-nuts in Victoria.

Joining me on the panel were Jenny Cameron, culinary instructor, chef and author, and Daniel Rigollet, former owner of the legendary Chez Daniel, who now teaches French Classics at Malsapina University-College in Nanaimo.

For the tasting, chocolates from each establishment were set out in unmarked boxes, with nothing to identify different flavours or fillings. If well-made, those flavours or fillings would be instantly recognizable.

Chocolates were judged for appearance (eye-appeal, shape, shine); texture (smooth, hard, gritty); taste (rich, chocolaty, sweet) and finish (pleasing, long lasting, artificial).

First up were those from Hot Chocolates, which have the appearance of being caringly crafted by hand. The shapes were uniform, mostly plump and round, with decorative squiggles to help identify different flavours.

"Makes for a nice little surprise when you bite inside," said Rigollet.

Victoria chocolate factory

The flavouring in clean, creamy fillings -- espresso, hazelnut of maple -- was easy to identify, although Rigollet found some a touch too sweet.

I was impressed that the chocolates incorporated little pockets of other flavours, such as a petit dark chocolate heart filled with white chocolate butter cream, and a delicious drop of raspberry confit. It was so good!

"Even if I don't go for white chocolate, I'd go for this one," said Cameron.

We all agreed that toffee truffle -- bits of Hot Chocolate's own buttercrunch toffee blended with a vanilla bean-scented white chocolate truffle cream -- would be worth the drive to Courtenay.

Chocolates in a wide range of flavours from Choco-nuts, a tiny store located in Tillicum Mall, were judged by all as very fresh.

"Interesting shapes; very creative; good eye appeal," Rigollet noted, also commenting, as we all did, that these chocolates were not as refined as the others we sampled and I found some of them, particularly the solid chocoate, very hard.

The big surprise about Choco-nuts, though, was that their sugar-free chocolates were hardly discernable from the others.

Choco-nuts uses maltitol, a sugar-free, low-carb sweetener, to make these chocolates.

The company says they have had wide appeal among people with diabetes, and those giving the Atkins diet a whirl.

When we opened the third box of chocolates, from Chocolat, several judges were immediately impressed with the looks. "Quite beautiful," Cameron commented.

"Good display of professionalism," added Rigollet, adding that whoever made them knew what they were doing.

I seconded that motion after sampling a half dozen or so, which came in a wide range of shapes and sizes -- a mini, crushed cocoa bean coated bar, white and dark chocolate swirls, and dark chocolate hazelnut cream.

"These chocolates just don't have pretty face," said Cameron, searching through the box for one she hadn't tried.

We did find that with some liquor-flavoured confections, such as a dark chocolate shaped like a rum barrel, the taste of the alcohol overpowered the taste of chocolate.

I saved the most interesting chocolate for last, a chocolate-coated disc with mildly spicy, chili-flavoured centre. Sweet, spicy, creamy and chocolaty -- an interesting and amazing taste sensation.

The level of creativity, and the exquisite look and taste of every chocolate sampled, helped Chocolat edge of out our other deserving entries to become our chocolate maker of the night.

Source: Eric Akis

READER'S CHOICE: BEST CHOCOLATE MAKER:

1. Rogers' Chocolates (Victoria, Oak Bay, Sidney)

2. Hot Chocolates (238 Fifth St., Courtenay)

3. Chocolat (New location in time for Valentine's Day, 703 Fort St., Victoria)

4. Purdy's Chocolates (Multiple Island locations)

5. Bernard Callebaut (Victoria, Nanaimo)

Others highly recommended: Choco-nuts (Victoria); Rembrandts (Duncan); Denman Island Chocolates (Denman Island); Tofino Chocolatier (Tofino); Choice Chocolates (Port Alberni); Lunn's Bakery and Chocolate Shop (Sidney); Bobbi Raes Sugar Free Chocolates (Sidney); Tamara Bailey (Victoria).

TASTING PANEL RESULTS:

1. Chocolat

2. Hot Chocolates

3. Choco-nuts (Tillicum Mall, Victoria)

© Copyright 2004 Times Colonist (Victoria)

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Raw chocolate is developed by curing and roasting the purple cocoa beans with the same care and dedication that wine-masters exercise when choosing grapes for fine wines, says Charlie Sigvardsen, from Charlie's Chocolate factory in Burnaby. Good chocolate melts on the tongue and should not be waxy or be gritty in the mouth.

B.C. chocolate makers blend these raw chocolates and experiment with various ganaches (centres) ranging from handpicked local fruit to ice-wines.

Chocolate events and attractions abound in the province.

Chocolate counter
 

 

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