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Vancouver Island
Cowichan | Mt. Washington
Mount Washington Ski
Resort
by Anne Mullens
March 7, 2003
COMOX VALLEY, British Columbia – When lower-than-average
snowfalls were plaguing ski resorts all across Western Canada earlier
this winter even snowy Mt. Washington on Vancouver Island was feeling
the pinch. Instead of its usual 15 to 30 feet during most of February
its base was sitting at just 9 feet (278 cms) of snow.
That was more than enough, however, to cover its 50 flowing runs and
extensive cross-country ski trails, to guarantee great skiing when
other resorts were hurting, and for it to brag it had 100 cms more
base than its nearest rival, Whistler.
And it was more than enough, one evening last month, when my young
daughters and I were returning to our hotel from tubing, to make me
fear for our lives as a blizzard swirled around us, obscuring all
landmarks. I could see the headline: “Young family freezes to death
less than 50 metres from room” and thanked God when the wind settled
enough for us to see the lights to guide us home.
Fortunately, Mt. Washington’s reputation as one of the snowiest ski
resorts in Canada even in bad snow years, is invariably a good thing
(although I am always sure to carry my cell phone, the modern-day
equivalent of a Prairie farmer’s rope between the barn and the
farmhouse.) The annual snowfall averages about 900 centimetres a year.
Four seasons ago it surpassed 1500 centimetres (50 feet!), forcing a
canyon to be cut so the chairlift could run up the mountain. For
families booking a ski vacation well in advance and worried about
conditions, it is one mountain that is that is guaranteed to have snow
no matter what is happening elsewhere in the west.
Ironically, despite its snowy reputation, presidential moniker, and a
wide variety of terrain, few people outside Vancouver Island have ever
heard of Mt. Washington.
Perhaps its obscurity comes from being the only major ski resort on
the Island – a destination that most in Canada associated with
gardens, golf and mild winters. But for locals, the mountain is hard
to miss: 1.7 kilometres tall (more than mile) it towers over the
cities of Comox, Courtenay and Campbell River, half way up the island,
about three hours north of Victoria.
On a clear day the stunning views from the top of its high-speed blue
chair take in the vivid green farmland of the Comox Valley and the
island-dotted blue waters of the Georgia Strait. The view is proof
positive that you can ski oodles of snow in the morning then drive 20
minutes down the mountain to play golf or walk on the beach in the
afternoon. Not that you would want to, however, as there are lots of
budget-friendly winter activities to keep you playing in the snow for
days, including downhill skiing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing,
tubing and even trying out their natural luge run.
Named in 1864 in honor of British Navy hydrographer John Washington
(not George Washington, as most presume) up until the late 1970s the
mountain was accessed only by logging companies and hikers. One clear
winter day about 23 years ago, three local foresters flew by and look
and were astounded at the snow. With a fourth Victoria-based partner,
the original founders are still the sole shareholders of the resort.
It has meant that its development has been slow and conservative –
reminiscent of Whistler in the 1960s and 70s before that mountain was
discovered by the rest of the world.
Best Run
In our family, that’s a toss up. My two girls just learned to ski two
years ago so they like the gentle rolling terrain of the novice runs
Sunset and Jack’s Run, which curl around the western-most part of the
mountain and which they would do over and over again despite having
lots of other choices on the mountain. I’ve been skiing since I was 3
and I would pick the challenge of the black diamond runs of Eagle or
Hawk or the high speed cruising blue runs Fantastic or Linton’s Loop.
The mountain has 50 runs -- 25 % beginner, 40 % intermediate and 35 %
expert. It’s not a huge array, but enough for each member in the most
diverse families to find a favourite. You can meet at the bottom and
ride up together on either of its two quad chairs or its new
six-person chair, among its total of seven lifts.
Best Restaurant, Shopping, and Night Life
Those categories, be warned, simply don’t apply to Mt Washington.
There is no village to speak of, only two bars, two evening
restaurants and two stores -- one a general store with liquor license
and the other a ski shop/gift shop. With just 3,500 beds available for
visitors in lodges, condos and chalets, most of the accommodation
features kitchens where guests cook their own meals, although there
are small restaurants and cafeterias in the Alpine Lodge and Raven
Lodge.
Most visitors stock up with food in Courtenay or purchase supplies at
the mountain general store. In fact, that low-key rustic flavour is
what most people find attractive for their family vacations.
“I’ve skied with my kids at many resorts across Western Canada and
what I like best about Mt. Washington is that it is not flashy,” says
Victoria mom Annabel Lapp. “You’re not going to be spending lots of
money eating out or partying. You are simply going to have good cheap
fun in the snow.”
It’s not really the place for young single partiers looking for choice
in a night of dancing, although the one hot-spot on the mountain, Fat
Teddy’s, is alleged to rock on the weekends. For our family, however,
an evening of fun at Mt. Washington means night skiing, sledding on
the runs (you can rent toboggans in the rental shop) or tubing, which
consists of hurtling down a slick, snow-covered track in a
canvas-covered inner tube and then sitting back in the same tube for a
comfortable ride up the hill pulled by a tow. My family’s
favourite is
tubing - it’s an exhilarating and hilarious way to spend a few hours
that usually leaves our stomachs aching from laughter. Call us dull,
but a cup of hot chocolate in the little hut at the base of the tubing
hill or back in our room rounds off what we consider a perfect day of
winter fun.
Best Deals
Frankly, the whole mountain is a good deal. Day-rate lift tickets are
$45, two-thirds the price of Whistler-Blackcomb at $69. Even better
rates can be had through ski packages. The other Nordic activities are
equally cheap. Trail rates are $17 a day. A two-hour luge lesson, luge
rental and helmet cost just $19. Once you have taken a lesson you can
rent a luge for just $4.40. Snowshoe rental and day-long trail pass
cost $12. Tubing is $11.25 a person for three hours. All prices in
Canadian funds.
Mt. Washington’s rental facilities are among the most extensive in
North America. You can rent anything you need for fun in snow even
clothing, goggles, helmets, mitts and toboggans. Skis, boots and poles
cost $26.20/day for adults and $17.45/day for children. High-end demos
of boots, boards and skis are available from Sno Tek an alpine
equipment store at the foot of the blue chair. Demo skis cost $28/day
and boards are $40/day.
All of that is made even more attractive when you consider it is still
common to ski right onto the lift, especially during weekdays. It now
averages about 5,000 skiers on weekends and 2,000 on weekdays, 80 per
cent of them from the Island.
That’s why those of us who boast we’ve found the perfect rustic family
resort must confess a certain reluctance to share our snowy secret,
especially now that WestJet has daily flights from Calgary that fly
directly into Comox, 25 minutes away. In fact, I’m sure to fetch hell
from friends for this article, like the fisherman who blows the cover
of a secret fishing hole. “What? You told all of Calgary about Mt.
Washington? Way to go, Mullens…”
Bottom Line
- 50 runs
- seven lifts
- down hill lift ticket $45
- extensive cross-country
IF YOU GO
Location: Mt. Washington is located 170 kilometres north of Victoria
on Vancouver Island, 16 kilometres inland of the east side of the
island, above the Comox Valley. See
www.mtwashington.bc.ca
Central Reservations: One call to the mountain can arrange
accommodations, rentals, lessons, even ferry passes and airport
shuttle service and will find the best deals on weekend and weekday
ski packages. A five day ski package is available, for example, from
$339/person, which includes five nights ski-in/ski-out accommodation,
five lift tickets, one evening of snow tubing, 8 hours of lessons, an
après ski social and a final dinner. Five-day cross country ski
packages are available from $299. Call 1-888-231-1499
Getting there:
By Car: Once in Vancouver, take the BC Ferry to Nanaimo from
either Horseshoe Bay Terminal or Tsawwassen. Once on Vancouver Island,
Mt Washington lies a further 90 minutes north along highway 19. Call
1-888-223-3779 or visit www.bcferries.com for current ferry schedules
and fares.
By Air: WestJet flies direct from Calgary. Call toll free 1
-888-WESTJET (1-888-937-8538) or call: 1-800-538-5696. One way flights
cost less than $100 per person. Once at Comox airport take the shuttle
to the mountain.
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Mt.
Washington as seen from Battleship Lake
Your complete vacation, accommodation, business
and community information guide to
Victoria, British Columbia in series of Travel Guides including,
Sooke,
East Sooke,
and
on southern Vancouver Island, British Columbia.
Mt. Washington in
the Autumn by the Saco River
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