Grilled tenderloin steak is topped with port and chocolate sauce

CREDIT: Bruce Stotesbury, Times Colonist

I'm addicted to chocolate and every afternoon around 3, I need a fix.

On one occasion, though, there was none to be found in my pantry, except for a lonely square of unsweetened. Desperate, I took a bite and can still taste it now: Yuck!

A complex tasting yuck, mind you -- bitter but rich, and lingering on the palate. I couldn't remember why I bought unsweetened chocolate and wondered what one did with it.

The answer is not always sweet.

Most people of European ancestry associate chocolate with sugary treats, and are often surprised to discover that it can be used to flavour savoury dishes. The pre-Columbian Indians, who were the first to use chocolate, would have been equally surprised for the opposite reason: our sweet use of chocolate would be almost sacrilege.

The word "chocolate" comes from the Aztec xocolatl, meaning "bitter water." Aztecs made the unsweetened drink from pounded cocoa beans and spices and it probably tasted as described.

This less appealing taste aside, the Aztec king Montezuma believed that chocolate was an aphrodisiac and he purportedly drank 50 golden goblets of this mixture each day.

Mexicans expanded on the savoury use of chocolate when they created their country's most famous sauce: mole (MOH-lay].

Mole comes from the Nahuatl word molli, meaning "concoction." That's a suitable name because, after reading several recipes for mole, I believe the person who told me that in Mexican households, what goes into mole usually depends on what's in the cook's kitchen.

In general, mole is a smooth, rich, dark reddish-brown sauce usually served with poultry, but also served with pork and other meats. Several varieties of chilies, tomatoes, seeds, raisins, tortillas and spices are some of the ingredients that may go into the sauce.

According to Diana Kennedy's The Essential Cuisines of Mexico, no festival in that country would be complete without mole poblano de guajolote being served.

It's made with numerous ingredients, including a mix of chilies, turkey pieces and Mexican chocolate, flavoured with cinnamon, almonds and vanilla, or unsweetened chocolate, which is most often used in Americanized recipes. Only a small amount of chocolate is used, but it contributes a unique, lush richness to the sauce.

Kennedy writes in the introduction to her recipe that the French were somewhat surprised one Christmas Day, during a broadcast from Mexico, to hear a correspondent say: "Today while you eat your turkey and chocolate buche de Noel (chocolate log cake), just stop and think what you are eating came originally from the New World; chocolate and turkeys both came from pre-Columbian Mexico. We, too, are eating them in Mexico today; the only difference is that we are eating them together."

According to the Oxford Companion to Food, in Europe it seems the Italians were the first to explore such possibilities centuries ago by putting hints of chocolate into meat pasties and kindred dishes. Today, some Italian cooks put small amounts in salsa agrodolce; a sweet and sour sauce served with dishes such as boar and hare.

The Spaniards have been more consistent in using chocolate in savoury dishes, particularly in the Catalan-style dishes.

In Canada, over the years, I've noticed more and more chefs incorporating chocolate into savoury recipes, particularly those involving game, such as venison. The dark, intense meat seems to marry well with the dark, rich flavour chocolate can contribute.

The research for today's column inspired me to create my own recipes using unsweetened chocolate. This time, though, the judicious use of unsweetened chocolate left me murmuring yum, not yuck.

CHIPOTLE CHICKEN MOLE

Mole means "concoction," and my non-traditional mole is certainly that.

The chipotle peppers (smoked jalapenos) give the mole a wonderfully smoky flavour; the nuts and raisins add body and a touch of sweetness; and the chocolate brings richness to the mole's taste and colour.

Trying serving it with steamed or Spanish-style rice, and a lightly dressed salad of lettuce, avocado, tomatoes and onion.

Preparation time: 40 minutes

Cook time: 60-70 minutes

Makes: 4-6 servings

2 Tbsp lard or vegetable oil

6 whole chicken legs

1 1/2 cups chicken stock

1/2 medium onion, thinly sliced

1 celery rib, thinly sliced

1 small carrot, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

10 whole black peppercorns

1 14-oz can diced tomatoes

2 Tbsp brown sugar

1/4 cup whole blanched almonds

1/4 cup raisins, plumped in warm water 30 minutes, then drained

2 Tbsp sesame seeds, lightly toasted

3- 4 chipotle peppers in adobo sauce

1 113-gram can mild green chilies

1 corn tortilla, broken into pieces

1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

1/4 tsp ground coriander seeds

1/4 tsp anise seeds

1/8 tsp ground clove

- salt and black pepper to taste

3/4- 1 oz unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped

Preheat the oven to 375* F. Melt the lard, or heat the oil, in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken legs and brown on both sides. Transfer chicken to a casserole. Set the skillet and leftover lard or oil aside for later use.

Add the chicken stock, onion, celery, carrot, garlic and peppercorns to casserole. Cover and bake 40-45 minutes, or until the chicken is just cooked through, but still firm. Transfer chicken to a plate and set aside; strain the stock and skim fat from the surface. Place the diced tomatoes, brown sugar, almonds, raisins, 1 Tbsp of the sesame seeds, chipotle peppers, chilies, tortilla and spices in a food processor or blender. Pulse until smooth. Remove all but 2 Tbsp of the lard or oil in the skillet, then set over medium heat. Add the mixture in the food processor and simmer, stirring regularly, 5 minutes. (Be mindful of splatters).

Stir in the reserved stock and the chocolate; mix well to combine. Add the chicken legs to the pan, turning to coat in the sauce. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and gently simmer 20 minutes, basting chicken with sauce occasionally. Thin with a little water if sauce becomes too thick. Divide chicken among plates, sprinkle with remaining sesame seeds, and serve.

Note: You can toast the sesame seeds by cooking and swirling them in a non-stick skillet over medium heat for 4-5 minutes. The chicken and the sauce could be made in advance, stored separately, and then brought together and cooked a day or two later. Chipotle peppers in adobo sauce and mild green chilies can be found in the Mexican food section in most supermarkets. You can store unused chipotle peppers in a tightly sealed jar in the fridge for several weeks.

PEPPER-CRUSTED TENDERLOIN STEAKS WITH SHALLOTS, PORT AND CHOCOLATE

This recipe will work with any rich tasting tenderloin steak, be it from beef, buffalo or venison. You could also try ostrich steak.

Serve with a selection of fresh, steamed vegetables, such as new potatoes, snap-top carrots and snap peas.

Preparation Time: 20 minutes

Cooking Time: About 8-10 minutes

Makes: 2 servings

2 5-oz beef, buffalo or venison tenderloin steaks

1 Tbsp olive oil

1- 2 tsp coarsely cracked black pepper

- salt to taste

For the sauce:

1 Tbsp olive oil

1 Tbsp shallot finely chopped

1 oz port

1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup beef stock

1 tsp chopped fresh rosemary

1/2 oz unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped

2 fresh rosemary sprigs

Brush the steaks with 1 Tbsp of oil; then season with salt. Sprinkle with the pepper on both sides, pressing it firmly into the meat. Set meat aside. Preheat an indoor or outdoor grill to high heat.

Meanwhile, heat 1 Tbsp of oil in a small skillet set over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and cook 1 minute. Add the balsamic vinegar and port and reduce until syrupy. Add the stock and rosemary and bring to a simmer. Stir in the chocolate and cook until a lightly thickened sauce forms; reserve on low heat.

Grill the steaks to desired doneness. Serve on a pool of the sauce; garnish with a sprig of rosemary; and serve.

TURKEY AND MIXED BEAN CHILI WITH COCOA AND JALAPENO PEPPERS

Cocoa, which comes from the same beans used to make chocolate, added such a wealth of body, colour and flavour to this chili that my family called it my best ever.

The dish serves eight, which makes it perfect to serve when you have friends over to watch the game. I served it with taco chips, sour cream, grated cheddar and chopped fresh cilantro.

Preparation Time: 30 minutes

Cooking Time: 45-60 minutes

Makes: 8 servings

3 Tbsp olive oil

1 lb ground turkey

1 medium onion, chopped

2-3 jalapeno peppers, seeds removed and finely chopped

1 medium red bell pepper, chopped

1 medium yellow bell pepper, chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1 28-oz can crushed tomatoes

1 28-oz can diced tomatoes

2 19-oz cans bean medley

1 cup chicken stock

2 Tbsp chili powder

2 tsp ground cumin

3 Tbsp brown sugar

2 Tbsp cocoa

1 tsp oregano

- salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste

Heat the oil in a large, heavy pot or Dutch oven set over medium-high heat. Add the turkey and cook through, stirring as you go to break up the meat. Add the onion, jalapeno pepper, bell pepper and garlic and cook 5 minutes more. Add all remaining ingredients.

Bring to a boil, and then adjust until the chili gently simmers. Loosely cover and cook, stirring occasionally, 45-60 minutes, or until chili is thick, rich and bubbly. Thin with a little water if chili has become thicker than you like.

Note: Bean medley -- a mix of canned legumes such as black-eyed peas, chick peas and kidney beans -- is sold alongside other canned beans in supermarkets.

© Copyright 2004 Times Colonist (Victoria)